EGON DC-Hub Installation Guide
I suggest you click HERE to download the digital version.
If you prefer to print these out, the quality is good enough for you to then use a printed guide. These guides are backed up by installation videos on our YouTube channel. (We recon saving trees is a good idea.)
Video Installation Guides
Watch step-by-step instructions to get the most out of your EGON DC-Hub:
Basic Installation
Connecting a Redarc DC-DC Charger
Connecting a Redarc Battery Manager
Load Connection Guide
Connecting a Shunt with the EGON DC-Hub
Inverters and the DC-Hub
Enerdrive DC-DC to EGON DC-Hub
Connecting the EGON DC-Hub with the EGON Relay-Hub
EGON DC-Hub Installation Guide
What you will need to get started:
-
Cable cutters
-
Screw drivers
-
The Installation and Operations Manual (here)
The EGON DC-Hub is suitable for 12 and 24V systems with high-output connectors upgraded from 50A to 80A each.
It also has the addition of the permissible input current increased to two 40A connectors that reduce voltage-drop during long-duration, high-current charging from DC-DC chargers
Connector Explanation
-
The house (aux) battery (AGM, LiFePO4, flooded Lead Acid, etc.) connects to connector P3 and requires an external 150A fuse at the house battery bank. Any size battery bank can be used.
-
The start battery connects to P8 and needs an external fuse at the start battery of your vehicle.
-
Solar panels can connect to P7.
-
Your P8 & P7 positive cables link to P6 for a seamless connection to your DC/DC charger with integrated MPPT controller (i.e. Redarc BCDC range, Enerdrive DC/DC, etc.). These can all be connected to P5 with charger output and ground, or connector P6 for solar and start battery input.
-
All ground connections of every single connector are linked on the circuit board.
-
All loads (compressors, fridges, lights, charge ports, etc.) can now be connected to the remaining connectors and will be automatically connected to the house battery.
Please take note:
-
Connectors P4 & P5 can handle a constant 80A load. To prevent the Maxi Fuses from overheating, please use 2 Maxi Fuses.
-
Example: When connecting a DC/DC charger to connector P5 that requires a 60A fuse, insert 2 x 30A fuses into fuse holder F13 & F13A.
-
Do the same with connections to connector P4 and use the fuse holder F14 & F14A.
-
Connectors P9 & P10 can only handle 40A constant load or 80A intermittent load.
-
Currents of 40A must not be exceeded for more than 10 minutes at a duty cycle of 50% (10 minutes on / 10 minutes off) to allow the contacts to cool.
ATTENTION:
-
Fuses are meant to fit tightly in the sockets on the DC-Hub Board.
-
Do not attempt to pry open the receiving sockets to make fuses easier to remove.
-
The tight nature of the fuse in their holders ensures minimal voltage-drop.
-
If they become loose-fitting, the connection may heat up, and voltage drop and efficiency will be reduced and damage can occur due to heat build up on the fuse holder.
-
If you find a fuse that is not tight in its holder, we recommend using pliers, gently squeezing the connector before inserting the fuse.
-
Pay special attention to the DCDC charger connection fuse (P5).
A Closer Look At The DC-Hub

DC-Hub Connection Examples
DC-Hub with Redarc

This is an example of a standard Redarc DC system with a mid-sized inverter, a single house battery shunt, solar panel(s), DC/DC charger with an integrated MPPT controller, and an EGON Relay-Hub switching system.
The above also depicts an integration of a shunt to monitor the state of charge of the house battery. If your inverter exceeds 80A fuse ratings, it can be integrated using an external fuse from the house battery (shown above).
DC-Hub with Victron

This example shows a more complex DC system. It includes: a 50A DC/DC charger, 50A roof solar controller, 20A solar blanket charge controller, 3KVA Multi Plus inverter/charger, shunt, Cerbo GX, and a Touch-50 screen, all working alongside an EGON Relay-Hub switching system.
This configuration is a powerhouse and works beautifully in caravans, camper trailers, Troopcarriers, or even a canopy setup. The DC-Hub brings everything together, handling your high charge current and battery capacity like a pro, while keeping the whole system streamlined and easy to manage.
DC-Hub with Redarc and Victron

This example shows how to connect the BCDC Alpha range from Redarc. To get the most out of this charger setup, it is recommended that you connect your roof/fixed solar panels to an additional Victron MPPT. These chargers are inexpensive and allow your BCDC Alpha to maximise its charging potential from the alternator while the roof solar works in parallel. For example, you might receive about 50 A from the alternator and an additional 10 A from a 200 W roof panel via the Victron MPPT, giving roughly 60 A while driving in sunshine, instead of 50 A when relying on the BCDC Alpha’s internal MPPT for fixed solar. Instead, use the BCDC’s internal MPPT for a portable solar blanket. Another advantage of this approach is that the fixed panels can operate at a higher voltage than the solar blanket.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the EGON DC-Hub and Redarc’s Red Vision System?
There are several differences between these two products. The main one being the simplicity of the DC-Hub, which stays away from the technology of screens and phones, etc simplifying the product immensely. The Red Vision has many integrated features including water level monitoring, temperatures, etc.
The installation of the Red vision includes running multiple cables and requires lugs, crimps, and shrink cable; whereas the DC-Hub doesn’t.
All cables go to a single point and no other bits and pieces are required.
The Red Vision has a max of 80A where the DC-Hub has a max of 150A.
For more information about the comparison of these products, check out the YouTube video we created for it here.
How foolproof is it?
The EGON DC-Hub is so simply designed that almost anyone with basic electrical knowledge can easily install. The worst thing that could go wrong is that a fuse blows, but you will always be aware if that happens when the corresponding LED goes on.
If you set your DC-Hub up with the correct cable thickness and fuse rating, blown fuses shouldn’t be a problem.
We have wiring instructions available on our YouTube channel here and documents explaining Wiring.
What is the max Ah (Amp Hour) rating the DC-Hub can handle?
While the max Amp Rating for the start battery input is 60A through a DC/DC charger or Smart Solenoid, the Ah isn't the same.
As long as the fuse ratings on the circuit board are not exceeded the DC-Hub is compatible with any size battery bank on the start battery side or house / accessory battery side.
It is important to note that Ah and A are two different things:
- Ah = The capacity of a battery (as in how much energy is in the battery).
- A = The amount of current running through an electrical conductor.